DIY WannabeWhen a guy who works behind a desk finds a use for his tools!

Planning Permission

Planning permission regulates the use, siting and appearance of buildings and other structures. What to a homeowner might seem a minor alternation can have far-reaching implications. A structure that could obscure a driver’s vision near a junction, for instance, might constitute a traffic hazard. Equally a local authority may refuse planning permission on the grounds that the proposed scheme would not blend with the surroundings. If you live in a listed building, you will need listed building consent for any significant exterior or interior works. Conservation areas are also subject to stricter rules than normal.

Building Regulations

Building regulations are concerned with structural integrity and the suitability of the materials used. Most building works, including alterations or extensions, have to meet certain standards to safeguard public health and safety, and also – increasingly – to guarantee satisfactory levels of insulation and energy efficiency. It’s important to note that even when planning permission is not required, Building Regulations might well need to be taken into account.

Permitted Development Rights

You can make certain changes to your home without needing to apply for planning permission. These permitted development rights were clarified and extended in October 2008 to cover a range of household building projects that used to automatically require an application for planning permission. These projects can now be carried out without formal permission provided they meet a range of key conditions (for example relating to the size and height of an extension, and its proximity to a highway). Projects include:

• Extensions
• Conservatories
• Garages
• Outbuildings
• Loft Conversions
• Solar Roof Panels
• Roof Alterations
• Patio and Driveways

For full detail of the conditions that apply in each case, see http://www.planningportal.gov.uk

Note that permitted development rights for houses differ from those for flats, maisonettes, commercial premises and other buildings. Listed properties are also subject to different rules, as are those on ‘designated land’, which includes national parks, conservation areas and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Planning  rules do also differ across the UK. So you should always seek advice from you Local Planning Authority when considering any work, just to be sure.

Damp

There are three types of damp: penetrating damp, rising damp and condensation. The best way to findout which type you have then a electronic moisture meter is ideal.

Penetrating Damp

Penetrating damp is caused by water seeping through the walls at any point (as opposed to rising damp, which is confined to the lower part of the ground floor walls). Damp patches may be visible when strong winds drive rain against the house wall and disappears when the weather improves. A semi permanent damp patch may be caused by a leaking gutter or a crack in the render; if a whole wall is showing signs of damp, it may mean that the old bricks have lost thier weatherproof faces and now become porous.

Penetrating damp is less likely to affect houses with cavity walls. If water does cross cavity, it is usally because mortar has spead onto wall ties.

Rising Damp

Rising damp is confined to the lower part of walls – up to a height of about 1 metre – and to solid floors, and is caused by water soaked up from the ground. Modern houses are protected by a waterproof barrier built into the walls 150mm above the ground (the damp proof course) and another laid under concrete floors ( the damp-proof membrane).

Water from the ground will be drawn up up into the structure of the house through any gap or breach in the damp proof barrier. This can happen if the plastic membrane under the floor is torn by a sharp stones, for instance. Very old houses without these barriers tend to suffer from rising damp. The problem is made worse by wet weather, but even in the summer in never completely dries out, and you may require professional help to determine the cause and remedy it.

Condensation

The warmth of a house causes moisture to evaporate into the air. If windows and doors are always kept shut, fresh air is unable to replace the moist air. When humid air comes into contact with a cold surface, it cools and condenses, depositing droplets of water. In cold weather the temperature of the external walls and windows is lower than the air indoors, so moisture condenses and runs down window panes and into the wallpaper and plaster.

Damp in modern house in good condition is nearly always due to condensation. To reduce condensation, you can extract the moisture using an extractor fan and also adding double glazing as the inner glass doesn’t get as cold to less likely to cause condensation.

What is happening with our property?

Its now been 7 months since we put the house on the market so patients has definitely ran out and we just want out. There is nothing wrong with the house its just that we have set our heart on moving.

It not been all doom and gloom the interest in the house has certainly perked up in the past few week which mean time to live in the show house. I know that its needed to have a nice tidy house for viewings but to have to live in a show house is exhausting. So  you run round clearing up all the time that as soon the viewing has been it all goes out the window and basic hygiene seems a chore (Maybe exaggerating there). The estate agents call and then it start again… what joy.

The Offer… errr or not

Last week we got the call, Mr and Mrs. would like to put in an offer … over 15% lower than the asking price. It was positive but insulting at the same time. I know it nice to know someone is interested in buying but surly they know that knocking it down that much wipes out everything we have towards the next house.

Starting to look again

I know it is hard to starting looking seeing that we don’t have a concrete offer and what happened with the previous property but many of viewers have asked the question have we got our eye on anything. So we have decided that we need to create a short list. So right move here we come.

We need to find the perfect house once again for my perfect family. (cheesy but true)

Update on the last 4 months

Well to be honest, I have been rubbish updating my blog not because of Christmas etc, it’s because our dreams and plans crashed and burned.

We got the call in November saying our buyer needs to pull out because their buyer didnt like the survey. So not only did we need to pull out of our property we wanted to buy, someone else came in a bought it from right under our noses. What made it that little bit more painful was we had it surveyed (£500 Lost) and I started this very blog to track renovation.

Now its time to get over it and start blogging…

How I been feeling since it all fell through

Plumbing Pipes and Fittings

In an ideal world, pipe runs would be made in one piece from one fitting or appliance to another, to minimise the number of potential leak sites. In reality this simply isn’t possible – pipes are not made in infinite leangths, and the complex shapes often required would make it impossible to feed a single pipe through the structure of a house. So shorter lengths must be cut, shaped and joined together.

Pipe materials and sizes

At one time, domestic plumbing systems used iron and lead pipes. These days, copper pipes are the usual means of carrying water around the home, with plastic pipes used for waste systems. The most common size of copper pipes has a outer diameter of 15mm, although you may find smaller sizes (10mm) feeding monobloc taps and radiators, and larger sizes (22mm and 28mm) feeding baths, storage cisterns, tanks and boilers.

If your plumbing system was installed before the mid 1970′s, the pipework will almost certainly be of imperial dimensions (1/2, 3/4, and 1 inch inner diameter). You can join modern 15mm pipe to a 1/2 inch imperial and 28mm to 1 inch using standard metric compression fittings, but connecting 22mm pipe to a 3/4 inch requires a 22mm compression fitting with a special oversize olive.

Copper Pipes

Copper is strong but light weight, solders well and can be bent quite easily. Copper pipes can take capillary, compression or push-fit fittings.

Plastic Pipes

Although plastic pipes are commonly used only for waste water, there are also types of plastic pipe that are suitable for hot and cold water supply pipes and central heating systems. They can be joined to copper pipework and are made to the same standard sizes, although the wall thickness of different makes can vary. They are easy to bend and install, are impact – and frost resistant, and do not corrode.

So I recommend plastic pipes.

Enhancing the value of your property

Most home improvements will enhance the resale value of your property. Some are obviously more profitable than others. Loft conversions, suprisingly, are not guranteed to add value onto your house unless your house is in a desired area. On the other hand there are changes such as new kitchen or bathroom renovations are like to pay off when its time to sell your property. Also the same is also true for spending time improving the garden.

Rembemer, the impact on resale value is only one consideration when contemplating a home improvement project. The first questions to ask are:

1. Is it what I want?
2. Will it make me happy?
3. Can I afford it?

If you have answered Yes to all three then you are ready to proceed. Below are some do and don’ts to bear in mind when planning your renovation.

Do

• Paint and decorate
• Replace outdated bathroom suites (White is the safes bet)
• Choose a simple fitted kitchen
• Fit or expose wood floors
• Increase natural light
• Maximise views of the garden
• Add an extension to create a spacious kitchen
• Convert a cellar into a living or storage area
• Make your home more energy efficient

Don’t

• Rip out period features such as fire places
• Use textured plaster or wood-chip to cover uneven walls
• Create windowless rooms
• Install double glazing that doesn’t open
• Split rooms to make two bedrooms unless the rooms are massive
• Adding a conservatory which doesn’t have an obvious use for the extra living space

Happy renovating!

My Nan (aged 92) wanted me to replace her fridge freezer as she said it doesn’t work any more!

I rushed to her house and further investigation showed that the Bosch Fridge Freezer’s bulb had gone. So I put her mind at ease and ordered a replacement on internet making sure i order the same wattage and decided to film me fixing it.

My wife was a reluctant volunteer as Camera woman.

Check it out see for yourself.

I know this isn’t strictly DIY but I thought it was interesting when it comes to the kitchen appliance disasters that seem to happen at the worst times.

Ever had planned a dinner party but the day before the cooker packs in, or its your turn to wash your son teams football kit and you washing machine decides to go on a permanent strike.

Well in my hours of browsing I have come across and advert on You Tube and from further searching a site which is not yet live but soon to be.

Next Day Appliances

They will be offering Next day delivery on every product on the site up to 7pm anywhere in the UK.

To be honest, I haven’t a clue how they can logistically get a American fridge freezer to Inverness in less than a day. Impressive!!!

We got the phone call no one selling house wanted to get…

“Unfortunately the buyer is no longer in a position to buy your property. The buyer of their property has pulled out due to being put off with something on the survey.”

What makes it really annoying our buyer said that their buyer was in a great position being a cash buyer and wanting them out in 4 to 6 weeks. Oh well can’t complain forever, time to get our property sold … again.

Back on the market

Today we had an electrician round at the new property, to get a quote for the work that we want doing to the house, which is in a nut shell is a total rewire.

What I would suggest to anyone who is in a similar situation is;

1. Know where things are

Before the electrician arrives it is worth running around the house scouting out where the current power points are in each of the rooms. This helps a great deal when it comes to the walk around, as it speeds things up and it saves you getting the electrician to help you shift a couch to see what’s behind it.

2. Decide the layout of the room

Again before the electrician arrives, it helps if you know roughly how you are going to lay the room out, especially where you will be having most of your electrical goods (TV etc.) as you can double up the power points and even have them install TV points.

3. Think outside the box

Don’t forget you have an outside that could do with lighting up. It is even worth thinking about getting power to the garage.

4. Think to the future

Just because you don’t need it now doesn’t mean you can’t plan for it. If it is tying off cable in to the roof space ready for you to install spot lights in to the kitchen, or feeding armoured cable down to a future summer house at the end of the garden. Generally it will save money and hassle as it may require less intrusive work when you come round to it. (Or like my father in law, 10 years later the spot lights are still in their boxes in the loft)

They are my main points but here is a list of the other things worth a note;

• Fire alarms - Get them wire to the mains saves you getting batteries
• Double or Single mate – What’s the point of a single socket when a double will be twice as good.
• Bath rooms - Your light switch will be outside the room, its the law
• Height of the plugs – If you are doing the work with a government grant then the plugs needs to be at thigh height. If not a grant you can still have them just above the skirting board.

Hope this helps.